Sep. 8th, 2009

mmcnealy: (Default)
Two online dissertations, one which I think Katherine has mentioned before...

The Hüpsch Costume Collection in the Hessisches Landesmuseum Darmstadt, 17th century Johan Pietsch 2008, 344 pages, PDF. Click the image of the page to download it.

Herr Pietsch is also the author of the "Zwei Schauben" book.

Abstract: The thesis is about 23 tops of costumes from the 17th century in the Hessisches Landesmuseum Darmstadt, which come from a collector called Baron von Hüpsch. As there are no written sources on the costumes, the technological research of all garments is the main topic. The results make it possible to explain the development of tailoring techniques in the 17th century. Also the costumes are related to the history of costume in the 17th century. A catalogue with all the technological analysis and pattern drawings is included as well.


Although it is post 1600, a lot of the construction techniques and pattern shapes would also work for pre-1600. Does include pictures of the original garments, at the end, as well as line drawings of the pattern shapes and the materials they are made from. Includes tablet weaving diagrams, lace making and tailoring details. The pattern drawings include the various layers, and decoration diagrams.

Several of the garments look to be the same as are in the 17th c Abbegg book from the exhibt last year, only this thesis is FREE!

Some of the later 17th c women's garments in this thesis look like they could have been props in a Vermeer painting.



Bedeutung und Wirkung der schwarzen Bekleidungsfarbe in Deutschland zur Zeit des 16. JahrhundertsBremen, 2005 Trans: Meaning and effect of black clothing color in Germany at the time of the 16th Century

Contains information about the importance of the color black, but also contains clothing inventories and clothing regulations specifically dealing with color from a wide range of decades in the 16th century
mmcnealy: (Default)
This looks very promising!
from Conservation Information Network (BCIN)

Author: Petrascheck-Heim, Ingeborg
Title Article/Chapter: "Die Meisterstückbücher des Schneiderhandwerks in Innsbruck"
Title Translated English: "The "Masterpiece-Books" of the tailor guild in Innsbruck"
Title of Source: Veröffentlichungen des Museum Fernandeum
AATA Number: 15-1193
Date of Publication: 1970
Page Numbers: 159-218
Language Text: German
Subject Label: History
Abstract: Since the 13th and 14th centuries regulations were created by all trades concerning admission to a trade and its practice. This resulted in guilds and trade unions which also provided social assistance in cases of illness or death. To acquire the title of "Master" the apprentice had to produce masterpieces to prove his ability. The Archives of the City of Innsbruck contain in the Council Records of the 16th cent., detailed elaboration of the Rules of the Tailor Guild. Several Masterpiece Books, most of which go back to 1545 are preserved in the Fernandeum. These books contain accounts on materials used. In 1777 the Innsbruck Tailor Guild abolished the requirement of using the masterpieces at examinations. A new Masterpiece Book was introduced in 1779 with patterns and models of contemporary fashions. -- AATA

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