mmcnealy: (Default)
{Edited to fix link rot, July 10, 2012}
If you were ever curious about what styles were worn at the Saxon court before the "Princess dress" came into fashion, (which might give clues as to the construction) well now we've got some more pieces in the puzzle.

Lucas Cranach painted a book of the people at the Saxon Court, some of them in quite informal poses and appearing to be in the middle of conversations. Each person depicted has their name, a short verse and their coat of arms down below, some have the coat of arms of the city that they are from or have the name of their town in the rhyme above their heads.

Das Sächsische Stammbuch - Mscr.Dresd.R.3 - The Saxon Pedigree
A collection of portraits of Saxon princes, with rhyming text, from the period
1500 - 1546



This one, is a gown in a transitional style, part Master of the housebook dress with the neck chains and part Saxon court style with the cutout front, brustuch and lacings. 

This picture of two women,  makes me wonder if we're seeing the same style of dress, but the lady on the left is pregnant, and the lady on the left isn't. But either way, you've got to love the green Zopfe and the red and gold striped Haube on the other.

Cranach did us all a favor by painting most of the portraits in 3/4 view,  and some of them from the back,  and side, (this is crucial to understanding how the dress might be constructed, and how it should fit from all angles). 

There are also women in multi-parti dress, which may be heraldic dress, 108, 149, 158.

In the back, there are flip pages, where first you see the person as an adult, then you open the flip, and you see them as a child.   And then there are these three young ladies, in beautiful silk gowns that look to be pink/blue shot silk taffeta.

There are plenty of other lovely pictures (200+ total), including lots of men's clothes too, these were just the ones that caught my eye tonight.
mmcnealy: (Default)
Since the French pictures were such a big hit last night, I went looking on Base Joconde to see if I could find any more pictures showing sheer sleeves. (I finally get to use all those years of college French! Ah!) I wasn't able to find anymore, but I did find other fun things.

I've posted two links for each picture. The first one is to the full record for each picture. As this one can take a while to load, I've also posted the direct link to the picture.

If you post these links in your journal, please give credit where credit is due.


NCONNUE ; DITE AUTREFOIS DIANE D'ANDOUINS, COMTESSE DE GRAMONT, OU LA BELLE CORISANDE
Shortcut to picture
OK, this one doesn't have sheer sleeves, but check out that wonderful lace collar and the black and white stripes on the dress.

CLAUDE DE BEAUNE DE SEMBLANCAY, 1563
Shortcut to picture
This is still my favorite French dress evar! Has white, opaque sleeves.


CATHERINE DE MEDICIS, REINE DE FRANCE (1519-1589) ; DITE AUTREFOIS MARGUERITE DE FRANCE, DUCHESSE DE SAVOIE, 1540's
Shortcut to picture

A pink French Hood with a black veil.

PORTRAIT PRESUME D'ANNE DE LA QUEILLE ; DIT AUTREFOIS JACQUELINE DE ROHAN GYE,
Shortcut to picture A pink and black French hood.

Portrait de jeune femme
Shortcut to picture My! What a jaunty red hat she has.
mmcnealy: (Default)
Christina of Denmark, Dowager-Duchess of Miland and Lorraine, 1568-1572
I'm not usually into the very stiff puff sleeves or late French fashions, but I thought the sheer double layer embroidered sleeves over her bare arms deserved a link. I've never seen another example of a woman in formal dress with almost bare arms

A woman at her toilet, French school, 1600
A lady in her corset at her dressing table. Its hard to tell for sure, but I think its a back lacing corset, the lace at the neckline doesn't break its line like it would if it was front lacing.
mmcnealy: (Default)
Sebastian Brant's Narrenschiff (The Ship of Fools), was a very influential book in the early 16th century. The illustrations are rich with little details and humor.
mmcnealy: (Me)
When it rains it pours!

Sometimes when you prospect for information (aka data mining) you hunt and hunt and turn up nothing but empty. Other days you are practically drowning in new discoveries and can barely handle everything.

Today is a "barely keeping my head above water" sort of day, here are the gems.

First, A Atlas, dated middle 16th century, WDB,
Cod.Guelf. 4.1 Aug. 4° (Battista Agnese, Portulanatlas, Mitte 16. Jh.)
http://diglib.hab.de/mss/4-1-aug-4f/start.htm



Then this very odd box, also from the WDB
Cod.Guelf. 90 Aug. 8° (A. Kircher, Arca musurgica)
http://diglib.hab.de/?objekte=90-aug-8f

Its a wooden box, with wooden sticks, with writing on them, that have to do with music, as the box has musical scales on the sides for four parts. Its dated to the 17th century.



This book is a "Varia" Book, dated 15th century. Its got some really interesting writings having to do with musical composition on page 33. In the 40 page range, it looks like class notes or similar and has diagrams about the music notation in use at the time.
82.6 Quod. (8a) = Heinemann Nr. 4045 (varia de poesi, musica, astronomia, 15. Jh.)
http://diglib.hab.de/mss/82-6-quod-8a/start.htm


mmcnealy: (Default)
Not sure of the exact placement and time period of this book of hours, the WDB is very hard to get that information out of, they don't put it nicely where one can easily find it.

Cod.Guelf. 84.2.1 Aug. 12° ("Stundenbuch Herzog Augusts d.J.")

http://diglib.hab.de/mss/84-2-1-aug-12f/start.htm
mmcnealy: (Default)
More fun stuff from BSB

Paul Mair's De Arte Athletica, Volume I and II, Augsburg middle of the 16th century, BSB Cod.icon. 393 1 and 2
Volume 1: http://mdzx.bib-bvb.de/codicon/Band_bsb00006570.html
Volume 2: http://mdzx.bib-bvb.de/codicon/Band_bsb00007894.html

This book is in FULL color and has some of the most beautiful men's clothes I've ever seen! Here's an example from Vol 1



Hans Burgkmair: Turnierbuch - Copy of the Original of Hans Burgkmair the Elder. - BSB Cod.icon. 403, Augsburg 1540
http://mdzx.bib-bvb.de/codicon/Band_bsb00015125.html

Tourney book of Hans Burgkmair, lots of great horse barding, armour, and some clothes.



Turnierbuch. Ritterspiele gehalten von Kaiser Friedrich III. und Kaiser Maximilian I. in den Jahren 1489 - 1511 - BSB Cod.icon. 398
Augsburg ? 1550
http://mdzx.bib-bvb.de/codicon/Band_bsb00002178.html

Plates showing matches from tourney's in 1497, 1498, 1491 and 1511



Schriber, Stephan: Spätgotisches Musterbuch des Stephan Schriber - BSB Cod.icon. 420
Urach um 1494
http://mdzx.bib-bvb.de/codicon/Band_bsb00019746.html

Late Gothic Pattern Book, more cool calligraphy and illumination sample book.



Kleinodienbuch der Herzogin Anna von Bayern - BSB Cod.icon. 429
München 1552 - 1555
http://mdzx.bib-bvb.de/codicon/Band_bsb00006598.html

Jewelry catalog book of Herzogin Anna of Bavaria painted by Hans Mielich. Here's just a sample
mmcnealy: (Default)
Bellicorum instrumentorum liber cum figuris - BSB Cod.icon. 242, Venedig 1420 - 1430

For the earlier war time crowd, and other mechanical folks. Lots of interesting inventions and other sorts of diagrams. Not quite sure what to make of this one, but its certainly has some interesting ideas in it.

If your are looking for that off the wall A&S idea, this might be a good book to look through.
mmcnealy: (Default)
For my very early period friends, a Traditionsbücher from 1166-1196, the only surviving one to belong to a noble family and not a cleric.

Codex Falkensteinensis, Herrenchiemsee 1166
mmcnealy: (Default)
Today was not really the best day here, there was lots of failure on several fronts, but its always nice when the day ends on a good note.

First off, someone has posted really nice pictures of Jost Amman's Tourney picture from 1561 on Wikimedia.
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Gesellen-Stechen_1561

Then the BSB has put up Talhoffer's Fechtbuch in color,
Thalhofer, Hans: Fechtbuch von 1467 - BSB Cod.icon. 394 a, [S.l.] Schwaben 1467
http://mdz10.bib-bvb.de/~db/0002/bsb00020451/images/

Then to cap the day!
Zeugbuch Kaiser Maximilians I. - BSB Cod.icon. 222, Innsbruck um 1502
http://mdz10.bib-bvb.de/~db/0002/bsb00020956/images/

The Zeugbuch or Thing Book, of Kaiser Maximilian I, is a beautiful full color illustration of his war machine in action. All the war equipment you could ever ask for, pages upon pages of cannon, with the occasional soldier thrown in for spice.

It is really cool in that it shows in exacting detail how the cannons are mounted on the carts, how they are transported.

Interesting buckets and bags

Pikeman, and pike parts

Not sure of this weapon, but I love the view of the hat on the ground

Smaller size guns, with the gunners

Small size cannons, with gunners, love the Rock on the guy on the left

Rough pen sketch of two soldiers

The calligraphy and borders are really nice too throughout the entire book, especially the decorative pen work capitals towards the back, really beautiful stuff!
mmcnealy: (Default)
The BSB has been busy of late, and has put out a list of ALL of their many digital collections in English

Among the really cool finds I discovered on a very short search are:

Bonus, they are all in color!

BSB Cod Icon 341, Costume of the Men and Women in Augsburg, Nürnberg, Germany, Europe, Africa and the Orient.

BSB Cod.Icon 342 A circa 1600 copy of the Trachtenbuch of Christoph Weiditz

Zeichnungen von Trachten und Gebräuchen aus dem osmanischen Reich, Persien und der Neuen Welt - BSB Cod.icon. 342 k, circa 1570 Clothes and other things from the Turkish Empire, Persian and related countries.

Kostüme und Sittenbilder des 16. Jahrhunderts aus West- und Osteuropa, Orient, der Neuen Welt und Afrika - BSB Cod.icon. 361 Augsburg ? 1560 - 1570 Clothing and Portrait book from 16th century, of West and East Europe, the Orient, New World and Africa.

Here's the page that lists the subject matter that all the Iconigraphic Codices fall into. Click on the subject and it will pull up all the manuscripts. Not all are digitized yet, but a lot are.


Have fun!
mmcnealy: (Default)
I love this little scene of young men or boys setting up camp
http://tarvos.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/server/images/7002899.JPG

Its a detail image from this picture
Stammbaum der Babenberger
Leopold der Milde
Dieses Bild: 000343
Kunstwerk: Temperamalerei-Holz ; Tafelbild ; Part Hans ; Niederösterreich
Dokumentation: 1489 ; 1492 ; Klosterneuburg ; Österreich ; Niederösterreich ; Stiftsgalerie
Anmerkungen: Klosterneuburg
Details/Gesamtaufnahme:
http://tarvos.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/server/images/7000246.JPG



More behind the cut, including some great seam lines on doublets )
mmcnealy: (Default)
Finely carved comb from Koln
Front and back view
http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/MI01684d07b.jpg
http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/MI01684d08b.jp

15th c. Statue of a matron with a rosary from
Orte / M / Mainz / Sammlungen / Öffentliche Sammlungen / Mittelrheinisches Landesmuseum / Kunstgewerbe / Keramik / Irdenware
http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/MI02000b06b.jpg


Earring from 11th c.
Orte / M / Mainz / Sammlungen / Öffentliche Sammlungen / Mittelrheinisches Landesmuseum / Kunstgewerbe / Schmuck und Waffen
http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/MI02000e06b.jpg

From Orte / M / Mainz / Sammlungen / Öffentliche Sammlungen / Mittelrheinisches Landesmuseum / Kunstgewerbe / Metall
I think this is labeled as a Roman bronze strainer
http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/MI07046d01b.jpg

Nice bronze cooking pots and other utensils
http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/MI07046c12a.jpg

From Orte / M / Mainz / Sammlungen / Öffentliche Sammlungen / Mittelrheinisches Landesmuseum / Kunstgewerbe / Glas -
Lovely glass ribbon handle on this pitcher, 2-3rd century
http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/MI01999f06b.jpg
mmcnealy: (Default)
I'm in the middle of pulling together the pictures to teach a class on Saturday, and of course I'd find something that I wasn't looking for. {Very big grin}

In this drawing of Caspar Strum by Durer, 1520, Caspar is wearing what looks to be a square necked rock (we only have his head and shoulders to go by), but Durer has captured the small detail of the thread marks that come through the garment when the fastener was sewn onto the garment. Look closely at the right hand corner of the neckline square, also check out the cool detail of the point that fastens his shirt.

By the stitch marks, I'm guessing that its an alternating hook and bar closure.

Of course his Burgher style Schlappe is way cool too!
mmcnealy: (Default)
Geißelung Christi
Dieses Bild: 000180
Kunstwerk: Temperamalerei-Holz ; Einrichtung sakral ; Flügelaltar ; Salzburg ; Mt:27:001-031 , Mk:15:001-020 , Jo:19:001-008
Dokumentation: 1515 ; 1520 ; Gebertsham ; Österreich ; Oberösterreich ; Kreuzkirche
Anmerkungen: Gebertsham

http://tarvos.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/server/images/3000180.JPG

Interesting view of how the top part of this slashed hosen fastens. Looks like it spiral laces above the codpiece?
Wish this was in color!
mmcnealy: (Default)
Geburt Mariens
Dieses Bild: 015601
Kunstwerk: Malerei-Holz ; Einrichtung sakral ; Flügelaltar-Sonntagsseite
Dokumentation: 1515 ; 1525 ; Augsburg ; Deutschland ; Schwaben ; Dom Mariae Heimsuchung

http://tarvos.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/server/images/7016766.JPG

Another picture that I'm just loving tonight, the composition is nice, but the maid on the left, wondeful!

First, the light yellow dress with the narrow black banding and the deep orange and brown patchwork on the hem, hiked up with her belt with a red purse on it? Sweet. I love that you can also see the line of her smock in the back. Then there's the bright red gefrens, and the headband that it attaches to. Or the cute little white socklets with her black shoes!

So often dresses like this are just shown in drawings, its so refreshing to see one in color.
mmcnealy: (Default)
Wandering around tonight, and found these two little gems of pictures

Hl. Sippe
Dieses Bild: 015607c 015607d
Kunstwerk: Malerei-Holz ; Einrichtung sakral ; Flügelaltar-Werktagsseite ; Maria1:03:001-011
Dokumentation: 1515 ; 1525 ; Augsburg ; Deutschland ; Schwaben ; Dom Mariae Heimsuchung
Anmerkungen: 110x98 ; Trauchgau-Steingaden

C - http://tarvos.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/server/images/7016775.JPG
D - http://tarvos.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/server/images/7016776.JPG

C has a nice progression of boys clothes, from the naked baby to the toddler wearing the shirt with the fur lined vest over it, to the older boys in their Schauben. The one seated on the stool shows that he's wearing knee length sock like things. I've seen these before, but never in color.

D has one boy in a sleeveless rock and the other in a Schaube, and this time you can see the fasteners on the sock things! Very cool!
mmcnealy: (Default)
Found one that clearly shows a rock with a cloak over one shoulder!

Top picture, bottom right hand corner, yellow rock, grey cloak with red trim

http://www.dhm.de/ausstellungen/kurzweil/feb2.htm
mmcnealy: (Default)
These got posted a while back on the GermanRenCostume list by Katherine Barich, but I forgot to post them here for those who don't read that list

Two really nice clothing books, and heraldry too, of the Bavarian Court
Hofkleiderbuch (Abbildung und Beschreibung der Hof-Livreen) des Herzogs Wilhelm IV. und Albrecht V. 1508-1551 - BSB Cgm 1951, München 16. Jh.
http://nbn-resolving.de/urn/resolver.pl?urn=urn:nbn:de:bvb:12-bsb00016005-6

Hofkleiderbuch (Abbildung und Beschreibung der Hof-Livreen) des Herzogs Wilhelm IV. und Albrecht V. 1508-1551. Wappen mit Reimsprüchen des Holland. Abbildungen bayerischer Regenten - BSB Cgm 1952, München 16. Jh.
http://nbn-resolving.de/urn/resolver.pl?urn=urn:nbn:de:bvb:12-bsb00016900-2


Heraldry book, 18th century copy of the 1560 original. Its got the shield, with the crest and the appropriate flag, so you can see how the shield design would translate to a fabric design.

Wappenbuch des churbayrischen Adels (Copie eines Originals von 1560), Band 1 - BSB Cgm 1508,
http://mdz10.bib-bvb.de/~db/bsb00002248/images/index.html


Teilnachlass von Philipp Apian (z.T. lateinisch) (1554-ca.1585), Ortsansichten, Alpenpanoramen, Holzschnitte - BSB Cgm 5379(3, [S.l.] Bayern 1554 - ca. 1585
http://mdz10.bib-bvb.de/~db/bsb00002074/images/


And I'm sure that someone has a music geek friend who would love this
Songs of the Master school of Colmarer, from 1591, words and music notation to go with it!

Lieder der Colmarer Meisterschule - BSB Cgm 4999, [S.l.] 1591
http://mdz10.bib-bvb.de/~db/bsb00004911/images/



I found the last two via this listing of all the Handschriften by century

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