mmcnealy: (Default)
Here's what I did this weekend, worked on the Wappenrock commission!

The project has been progressing behind the scenes for the last month. I'm behind on diary entries, but making the mockup and how much ease I ended up using isn't really thrilling like actual pictures of construction. Click on the pictures for a larger view.

Here's the design we ended up going with.

Final design

Saturday
Spent about 6 hours ironing, cutting and sewing the skirt together. There are 24 sections, alternating black and red. Each section is made of three parts. This was a lot faster to sew than I thought it would be.
Skirt section pieces
Skirt sections laid out
Two skirt sections sewn together
Two skirt sections sewn
Completed skirt
The pieced skirt of the wappenrock

Sunday
Started piecing the body sections. This is the side front flap. I originally was going to strip quilt a large piece of fabric, and then cut the pieces out of that. But after doing a trial layout, and a sample strip section I realized two things.
1- There would be a lot of wasted fabric.
2- Its really hard to keep the seams even with no rippling over 50" wide material.

So I went with a different approach where I laid out the cut strips over the pattern, gave just a little extra on all sides, trimmed to size and then stitched it. The result is a really nice small section with very little waste. You end up using just about every last square inch this way.

Laying out the strips
Laying out the strips

Cut to size, with a little extra for sewing takeup
Pieces trimmed to size, and ready to sew

Pattern traced out on quilted section, see how little waste there is this way?
The pattern outline traced out

Cut out and mounted to linen backing for stability.
The side front flap of the body
mmcnealy: (Me)
At the end of April, I was contacted by Baron Erich of Zweihammer Armory about making him a wappenrock for an upcoming ceremony. He is the Baron of the SCA group I played with while out in California for several years, and I was thrilled to be asked. As my schedule had opened up, I was able to take on the commission.

I asked him if I could keep a public diary of the project as I went along and he thought it would be a great idea.

As he is progressing towards a more period appearance, he wanted something documentable, that he could wear without needing to explain anything, yet he wanted the German flash and over-the-top appearance that he sees on the German guilds in California. He also wanted to be able to wear it over armor and without, and have his device embroidered on one sleeve.

Here are his arms set inside the double headed HRE eagle.
zweihammer_eagle

I decided to present him with seven different designs, ranging from designs based on the Livery books of the Duke's of Saxony to designs based on tourney wear.
The Seven Choices )

Of the 7, #4 was definitely my favorite from the moment I completed the drawing, it just has that pizzazz to it.
Erich thought so too, and asked for a few changes, so this is the design I sent him last night. I haven't heard back what he things of it, but I think the upper sleeves need a little *something* more.
Idea #4 take 2

This is going to be such a fun project! I can't wait to get started. :)
mmcnealy: (Default)
I'm in the middle of pulling together the pictures to teach a class on Saturday, and of course I'd find something that I wasn't looking for. {Very big grin}

In this drawing of Caspar Strum by Durer, 1520, Caspar is wearing what looks to be a square necked rock (we only have his head and shoulders to go by), but Durer has captured the small detail of the thread marks that come through the garment when the fastener was sewn onto the garment. Look closely at the right hand corner of the neckline square, also check out the cool detail of the point that fastens his shirt.

By the stitch marks, I'm guessing that its an alternating hook and bar closure.

Of course his Burgher style Schlappe is way cool too!
mmcnealy: (Default)
Topic of this post is to look at the different types of sleeves that Rocks can have. For this study, I've chosen to look at Hofkleiderbuch (Abbildung und Beschreibung der Hof-Livreen) des Herzogs Wilhelm IV. und Albrecht V. 1508-1551 - BSB Cgm 1951, München 16. Jh
http://nbn-resolving.de/urn/resolver.pl?urn=urn:nbn:de:bvb:12-bsb00016005-6

The Puff Topped Sleeve with fitted forearm
Read more... )

Based on the first image showing the rock undone and how the similar style sleeves on the other rocks are behaving, I believe that this style of sleeve is not a narrow sleeve underneath with the puff applied on top, but the puff part is unstructured, meaning it is larger and longer, and can be pushed up by the narrower forearm part.



Other Sleeve Types
More sleeves )


Back View of a Rock
http://daten.digitale-sammlungen.de/~db/0001/bsb00016005/images/index.html?seite=160

[Links updated due to link rot, Oct 14, 2011]
mmcnealy: (Default)
Earlier this week, I posted this picture of a man in a yellow rock with something thrown over one shoulder.

Since then I've been looking for other images that show Rocks that have another garment over them.

I've found several both in portraits and in allegorical paintings.
What specifically they are called, either Schuabe or Hueske, I am still trying to determine this. I think that if its fur lined its a Schaube, if its fabric lined its a Husecke. However, until I get it sorted out, I'm using the term Schaube for either one lined in fur or fabric.

From Das Schwarzsche Trachtenbuch I + II on Bildindex,

Good Ol' Matthias Schwarz, Augsburg Burgher )

Color pictures from RealOnline )
mmcnealy: (Default)
Recently I've been looking at how heraldry translates into clothing designs. Here are some period examples that I've found. I'm sure that there are others, perhaps more subtle ones, but these are the easy obvious ones I've found.



Heraldic Rocks, Wappenrocks )


Heraldic Tourney Clothing, Herald clothing )
[Edited Oct 14, 2011 to fix the link rot]
mmcnealy: (Device)
For Henry's rock, I'm planning on making it in my heraldic colors, so I can get credit for one more category. This is just an insurance policy in case I totally screw up the calligraphy portion...

So, my plan is to make a heraldic rock like this one on a boy, not sure yet if I want to do the two main colors of blue and white, or add in the yellow as the heraldic Augsburg rocks add in their third color?

The Raw Research


The Augsburg Arms in red, white and green
http://www.dhm.de/ausstellungen/kurzweil/dez3.htm

Heraldic rock in Augsburg colors
http://www.dhm.de/ausstellungen/kurzweil/nov8.htm

Das Maienbad
** Yellow and Silver checky and the other half red. **
http://www.dhm.de/ausstellungen/kurzweil/mai2.htm#bad

Der Trauerzug
**Boys heraldic rock, yellow and black **
http://www.dhm.de/ausstellungen/kurzweil/feb2.htm


Hofkleiderbuch (Abbildung und Beschreibung der Hof-Livreen) des Herzogs Wilhelm IV. und Albrecht V. 1508-1551 - BSB Cgm 1951, München 16. Jh
http://nbn-resolving.de/urn/resolver.pl?urn=urn:nbn:de:bvb:12-bsb00016005-6


Red Rock, with different colored stripes inside the pleats that match with the heraldic colors on the arm band
http://mdz10.bib-bvb.de/~db/0001/bsb00016005/images/index.html?seite=18

Yellow Rock, with different colored stripes inside the pleats that match the heraldic livery colors on the arm band.
http://mdz10.bib-bvb.de/~db/0001/bsb00016005/images/index.html?seite=32

Rock, Half medium blue, half red and white (or yellow) stripes,[Hat is blue with red and yellow bunting]
http://mdz10.bib-bvb.de/~db/0001/bsb00016005/images/index.html?seite=72


Hofkleiderbuch (Abbildung und Beschreibung der Hof-Livreen) des Herzogs Wilhelm IV. und Albrecht V. 1508-1551. Wappen mit Reimsprüchen des Holland. Abbildungen bayerischer Regenten - BSB Cgm 1952, München 16. Jh.

Rock Half solid blue, half white and red chevrons
http://mdz10.bib-bvb.de/~db/0001/bsb00016900/images/index.html?seite=10
mmcnealy: (Default)
I've been doing more research (so what else is new?) and have been looking at what are commonly known in re-enactment circles as waffenrocks (armour rock) or wappenrocks (heraldic rock). Other period names for them are leibrock (body rock)or paltrock (pleated rock).

I want to make one for Henry to wear for our next event in a few weeks. Small boys are commonly seen wearing them and I thought he'd look good in one. Boys typically wear the ones with square necks, which is also a grown man's style too, but men have other style options as well.

One key issue I have with most modern recreations of waffenrock, or paltrock, is how they fasten. Most of the ones I've seen have laced on the side seam. Being one of those annoying people who always want to know if that's how things really were done, I had to go look through the artwork and see if I could see how ones in period sources fastened. So far I have found no evidence of a side fastening paltrock, but plenty of evidence for them fastening on one shoulder using a variety of methods, either buttons, ties or hooks and eyes.

I've put it behind a cut to save you from having to scroll forever

So, here's the short list of research on how these fasten.  )
[Link rot fixed 10/14/11]

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