Moved over

May. 5th, 2017 09:04 pm
mmcnealy: (Default)
The journal has been imported over from LJ, which was a lot easier and less painful than I'd feared! Yay for easy!
mmcnealy: (Me)

Its been a big work in progress for the last month of so, but the kickstarter to fund the Master Tailor's book publication has finally launched! Katherine Barich and I have been working hard on the manuscript, and arranging all the details for the photographs and permissions, and we are very excited to make this book a reality.

Here's the Kickstarter link where you can read more about it, and watch the video: Drei Schnittbucher: Three 16th century Austrian Master Tailor's books

Trip plans

Mar. 20th, 2013 08:50 pm
mmcnealy: (Me)
I am off to Germany April 13-28! Plane tickets purchased, rail pass on the way, and a preliminary schedule hammered out. But, planning a trip is SO exhausting, especially one with so many moving parts. I have list of museums that I NEED to see, a few that I want to see, and trying to fit all that in, plus a few other stops that I have found along the way... I know it will all work out, and I'll see the places that I need to see, I'm just trying not to miss anything crucial that might give me a puzzle piece that I might need.

So far, I'm going to Berlin, Potsdam, Dresden, Wittemberg, and Wurzberg, then off to a Drakenvald event for the weekend. Then photographing some must see places in Nuremberg on Sunday afternoon, and then since I don't know where I'm staying yet, I may see  Bamberg on Monday, or have a rest day somewhere else, Bad Windsheim is a possibility, they are supposed to have a good archeological museum there. Schwabische Hall is on the schedule for Tuesday (Darmstadt Madonna!!), and touring Kronach and possibly Veste Coburg on Wednesday. Thursday I'm off to Munich to meet my sister who's flying in from Portugal, and we're hitting the Munich museums and castles. Fly home on Sunday,

Yes, its going to be a working research trip, and I'll be a combination of exhausted and pumped when I get home. There are going to be TONS of photos and lots of neat things that I'll see in person, and only understand the importance of them when I get home and see the photo. I'm sure I'll get snide comments from at least ONE senior German lady about these foreign tourists and their cameras, thankfully I don't understand German all that well!
mmcnealy: (Me)
10 years ago, in March 2003, I got started on this crazy adventure of historical clothing by being intrigued with the Leonfelder 37 gown. Now, with 10 years of experience behind me, I find myself coming back to this dress, and looking at it with fresh eyes. I see the tailor play with bias grain, where I didn't see it before. I have the tools to do actual research instead of just stumbling around in the dark, wondering which end is up (Oh, the original dress diary is painful!!!).

And somewhere in all of this, my writing muse decided to show up, and the words on all sorts of topics have started to flow from my fingers. Its like I had to come full circle in order to move forward, a returning to my roots in order to sprout and move up,  which in some odd way makes sense to me.

Now I can analyze and explain this dress, not just try to comprehend the basics. I'm sure in another 10 years, I'll look back on this attempt and see things that I didn't see this time, its just the way things are.
mmcnealy: (Default)

I'm working on my monumental de-stash project, one small bit at a time..... I thought I'd post this here before I posted it to Ebay, just in case anyone wanted anything..

I've got the following 1920's era magazines and pamphelts from the Women's Institute for sale, I'd like $20 for each magazine. You can see photos of all the magazines here.

Fashion Service Magazines

Fashion Service Fall and Winter 1924 - 1925
Fashion Service Fall 1925
Fashion Service Fall 1926
Fashion Service February 1929
Fashion Service June 1929

Correspondance Course books 
Draping and designing with scissors and cloth (1924)
Dress decoration and ornament (1925)
Ribbon and Fabric trimmings (1925) [Also has the original, graded, exam sheet]
Dress Development (1923)
Underwear and Lingerie part one (1916,1921)
Underwear and Lingerie part two (1916,1921)
Maternity and Infants' garments (1927)


I also have 3 1920's dresses that are just for study. Photos are here
3 1920's Gowns for Study

The three dresses are: a rayon house or day dress, yellow duchess silk satin and lace gown, and a pale blue/green silk taffeta gown. I'd like $30 for  the lot.

Comment below if you want anything.

mmcnealy: (Default)

*sniff* and I don't want to!

From a good article sent to me by my mother  Gluten Issues or Celiac? Don’t Drink Coffee!

"In a nutshell, fairly recent lab research has revealed that 10% of coffee is a protein that cross reacts with gluten antibodies.

This means that if you are gluten sensitive or celiac and are avoiding gluten containing grains or perhaps have even gone completely grain free, if you still drink coffee there is a strong likelihood that the protein in the coffee is triggering the very same gluten related health problems you are trying to avoid."

Lovely! At least I like tea, but it doesn't quite have the *kick* of coffee. Maybe I can keep a can around to sniff when I need a mood boost (yes I know I sound like a total addict with that statement!)

Another interesting point, especially about symptoms of gluten sensitivity, which I had no idea about!

Most people who are gluten sensitive don’t realize it because gastrointestinal problems like burping, gas, tummy upset, or toilet issues are the least common way for gluten issues to present themselves!

The most common symptoms of gluten sensitivity?

Migraines and other neurological issues – even MS!

Hormone and endocrine problems are another common way for gluten issues to manifest themselves.

There's more information here at Dr. Clark's blog, guess I'm giving up coffee.

mmcnealy: (Default)

Finally, an actual blog post on my website about what's in store for the future. Future research posts will be over there, instead of here.
True Confessions

mmcnealy: (Default)
I finally changed the DNS servers to point to the new website on the new webhost today. The site appears to mainly be working OK, but will work better when I can get simple things like the URL's resolving properly, etc.  which will probably happen when the DNS servers have had 24 hours to settle, or I call tech support.

Ah websites, gotta love them!
mmcnealy: (Default)
This new article How Luther went viral is an interesting look at how the printing press enabled public debate during the time of the Reformation. Its a good read, not dry at al!


mmcnealy: (Default)
The best book I read this year was Brene Brown's The Gifts of Imperfection. 
If you struggle with being vulnerable, fear, guilt or shame, here's her TED talk about her journey as a researcher, and about her search for how to live a wholehearted life. http://www.ted.com/talks/brene_brown_on_vulnerability.html
mmcnealy: (Default)
I promised Cherylyn that I'd upload these as soon as I got back to the US, but ended up have a few moments with a good connection to upload them before that.  They've been uploaded at high-def, so you can zoom in and see the details.

For those not in the know about this crazy hat, its made from undyed linen yarn in a macrame technque and the stag is painted in a shiney red paint. It dates to the 16th c and was probably worn by a German nobleman. 


Have fun folks!

GNM 16th c Stag Hat Inv Nr. W 3248
mmcnealy: (Default)
 Home from Costume College and I am filled with ideas for all the costumes that I want to make this next year. 30's -50's day wear, a Teens dress, and of course a Gala Ball gown. I need to post an event recap, but that will have to happen later.

I promissed folks that I'd post my jewelry crack seller links, so here they are!
Here's the link to the seller, lots of super lovely jewelry and a few pieces in the same style as my necklace but in different colors.  http://stores.ebay.com/jwellmart

Other places I looked at, that had similarly styled pieces,
http://stores.ebay.com/HYDERABAD-TREASURES
http://stores.ebay.com/Indian-Art-Jewellery
http://stores.ebay.com/FashionJewellry
http://stores.ebay.com/India-Stop
http://stores.ebay.com/India-Trend


So I've been shopping on Utsav, and oh! OH! I'm sorry, but there are just too many Sarees!

These four are currently rocking my world, the left two are the same design but different colors (white shows the pallau design the best), the black I could see as an asymettrical wrap gown from 1908-09. Not sure about the saree to the far right, maybe Teens? Its gorgeous and deserves to be something fab.
If you want to peruse those I've found so far, you can check out my Utsav wishlist, there's only $8000 dollars worth of Sarees on there!
pretty pictures behind a cut )
mmcnealy: (Default)
I know its been a while since I posted a research post,  but this week I got an email asking for information or links to German or Swiss land grants, writs, etc. and I thought that should post it here in case other people were in search of the same thing!


Original Documents:
The Amorial image from the Grant of arms to Hans, Sebastian and Georg von Aachen.

Deed to Daniel Braumann, Incipit: Wir Burgermeister Schoffen und Rath der Statt Francffurt

Deed by Peter Semler and Katherena Offenbach, with autograph subscription by the latter

Tax Proclamation

Deed by Clas Stritter of Gemunde, transferring property to Hanns Haernig of Gemunde

Formular Books
Here are some texts on the topics, first up are two formular books, which give the proper format for various types of letters and documents.

Formular allerlei Schrifften, Instrumenten, und Brieffe, So in hohen Cantzleyen der Keyser, Fürsten und Herren Höfe, Auch anderer Stände und Stätt, Schreibereyen und Consistorien gefertigt und gestellet werden, Zu sampt den gebür und gewönlichen Titel Formen, Einem jeden seiner Geburt, Ampts, Stadt, und wesens, rechtmessig Titel, Ehrwort und Ehrerbietung, zustellen und zugeben ..., Franckfurt am Meyn 1575 [VD16 F 1885]

A scribal formula book, just in case you ever wanted to write a formal letter to a Nurnberg Burgher, you could look up the proper form of address for them.
The opening pages has a nice picture of a scribal shop with scribes at work at their desks.

Fruck, Ludwig: Rhetoric und Teutsch Formular in allen Gerichts Händlen, Franckfurt a. M. 1530 [VD16 F 3149]

A forumla book for notaries and scribes, Frankfurt am Main, 1530. The frontispiece has a really great little picture of various scribal tools, including a pen case and inkwell, pens and a pen knife, ruler, string, scissors, packets of something and what looks like a large toothed comb (perhaps used for making lines on paper?), not really sure what the various lumps and other things are.

Scribal Pattern Books
Here are several scribal pattern books for help with the proper scripts to use.

Scribal pattern book of Gregorius Bock, MS 439. Swabia, ca. 1510-1517
Go here: http://beinecke.library.yale.edu/digitallibrary/ Search for MS 439, chose Scribal pattern book. There is, unfortunately, no direct link to the manuscript

Here is the descriptive catalog entry for the manuscript. This includes which scripts are used on which pages, this information is not included in the manuscript. The scripts run from basic book hands, bastards, decorative capitals, color work, its really quite inspiring!


Late Gothic Pattern Book, more cool calligraphy and illumination sample book Urach um 1494 Very, very pretty!


Libro di M. Giovambattista Palatino cittadino romano : nelqual s'insegna à scriuer ogni sorte lettera, antica & moderna, di qualun que natione, con le sue regole, & misure, & essempi : et con vn breve et vtil discorso de le cifre (1550)
An Italian book from 1545, with a lovely selection of hands, the  German hands are on p. 63.
 
mmcnealy: (Default)
A question came up on the GermanRen list about bead work and spangles, and I'm posting my answer here as well.

Do you mean, there are some dresses with beads, and other dresses with spangles, are there some dresses with both?
Good question...

Cranach's portrait of Anna Cuspinian has spangles, (flinden)
on the bottom of her brustfleck, which looks to be cloth of gold with silk embroidery. Click through to the large image to see the detail
This lady, a donor at the bottom of a devotional painting, RealOnline 001154, has tons of spangles on her headdress, but no pearls.
Cranach's portrait of this lady has tons of pearls, but can't tell about the spangles, although there does look to be gold thread outlining some of the pearl clusters

There are both pearls and spangles in this necklace from Hungary Choker necklace, gold plated over silver and pearl Halskrause, Bild: 008671 Halskrause des Matthias Corvinus(?) 1500 ; 1550 ;

Pre-1500, I've found a couple of exant examples of beadwork (not pearls) combined with spangles
Bordüre 1401/1500?, Wienhausen, Kloster Wienhausen — Aufnahme-Nr. LAC 7.091/6
Bordüre 1401/1500?, Wienhausen, Kloster Wienhausen — Aufnahme-Nr. LAC 7.091/5
Bordüre 1401/1500?, Wienhausen, Kloster Wienhausen — Aufnahme-Nr. LAC 7.091/4

Post 1600, there are a few examples of spangles and gold work with pearls
This hunters pouch from early 1600's has beads and a few spangles, this one, also from the early 1600's, has gold work and beads
These Pantoffeln, velvet house shoes, 1600-1620 are embroidered with silver and have gold spangles

These were the examples I was able to find, and they don't really settle the question in my mind. Gold work with pearls and spangles seems like a logical thing to do,  just not sure if no examples survive, or they would have thought that it was overkill and tasteless, or if there was a sumptuary law against it. 


And a couple examples of appliquéd heraldic emblems that are just too cool not to post as well

Heraldische Stickerei: Feuerstrahl und Feuerstein mit Funken, Schweiz?, 1401/1500, Bern, Bernisches Historisches Museum — Aufnahme-Nr. C 655.142;; (color);


Heroldsrock, 1501/1600, München, Bayerisches Nationalmuseum — Aufnahme-Nr. 114.791;
mmcnealy: (Default)
 I'm likely to be in shock for a while, but I've been given a Writ today asking me to sit vigil for the Order of the Laurel on Feb 26th, at A Day in the Middle East

I keep looking at the beautiful piece of paper and thinking, "Wait, it has my name on it... that can't be right, can it?"


Here!

Sep. 2nd, 2010 08:12 am
mmcnealy: (Default)
Am I leaving LJ? No, not at this time, but its always good to grab the name you want before its gone. :)
mmcnealy: (Default)
 I'm presuming that my Spanish affectionado friends already KNOW about this publication, but just in case....

EN LA ESPAñA MEDIEVAL - a medieval history magazine devoted to Spain, which also happens to have most of its articles online for free.

This one looked especially good from 2009's issue

Mujeres de mercaderes, Mujeres Mercaderes. Testimonios de iniciativas femeninas en el ámbito comercial a finales del siglo XV - Women of Merchants and Merchant Women. Evidence of Women’s Commercial Initiatives at the end of the Fifteenth Century

Click on the tab Por Titulio at the top to see the articles of all the past issues.
mmcnealy: (Default)
{Edited to fix link rot, July 10, 2012}
If you were ever curious about what styles were worn at the Saxon court before the "Princess dress" came into fashion, (which might give clues as to the construction) well now we've got some more pieces in the puzzle.

Lucas Cranach painted a book of the people at the Saxon Court, some of them in quite informal poses and appearing to be in the middle of conversations. Each person depicted has their name, a short verse and their coat of arms down below, some have the coat of arms of the city that they are from or have the name of their town in the rhyme above their heads.

Das Sächsische Stammbuch - Mscr.Dresd.R.3 - The Saxon Pedigree
A collection of portraits of Saxon princes, with rhyming text, from the period
1500 - 1546



This one, is a gown in a transitional style, part Master of the housebook dress with the neck chains and part Saxon court style with the cutout front, brustuch and lacings. 

This picture of two women,  makes me wonder if we're seeing the same style of dress, but the lady on the left is pregnant, and the lady on the left isn't. But either way, you've got to love the green Zopfe and the red and gold striped Haube on the other.

Cranach did us all a favor by painting most of the portraits in 3/4 view,  and some of them from the back,  and side, (this is crucial to understanding how the dress might be constructed, and how it should fit from all angles). 

There are also women in multi-parti dress, which may be heraldic dress, 108, 149, 158.

In the back, there are flip pages, where first you see the person as an adult, then you open the flip, and you see them as a child.   And then there are these three young ladies, in beautiful silk gowns that look to be pink/blue shot silk taffeta.

There are plenty of other lovely pictures (200+ total), including lots of men's clothes too, these were just the ones that caught my eye tonight.
mmcnealy: (Default)
I ran across this drindl dress diary, and I found it fascinating that she uses a "hansel" or a piece of checkered fabric to space her pleats on the skirt and apron. Also, braiding the ends of the cartridge pleat threads and leaving wide seam allowances in the bodice make this a piece of clothing that can be easily altered in the future.

A nice example of clothing, not costume
mmcnealy: (Default)
1.. Where are you camping?
Barony of Marinus (E05 I think, don't quote me on it)

2. When are you arriving?
Monday August 2nd, leaving Thursday the 12th.

3. What cool stuff are you doing?
Shopping, Socializing, Hanging out at the playground with Henry, Sewing, Cooking, etc.  I might make it to a few classes, and I'd like to hangout at Artisan's row and work on a few headdresses, but we'll see how things work out.

The 1503 German ball is definitely on my list of things to go to, and I foresee lots of exploratory walks with Henry around the grounds. Maybe we'll watch a battle or two.  

4. What's your SCA name?
Lady Sophia Kress

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