mmcnealy: (Default)
{Edited to fix link rot, July 10, 2012}
If you were ever curious about what styles were worn at the Saxon court before the "Princess dress" came into fashion, (which might give clues as to the construction) well now we've got some more pieces in the puzzle.

Lucas Cranach painted a book of the people at the Saxon Court, some of them in quite informal poses and appearing to be in the middle of conversations. Each person depicted has their name, a short verse and their coat of arms down below, some have the coat of arms of the city that they are from or have the name of their town in the rhyme above their heads.

Das Sächsische Stammbuch - Mscr.Dresd.R.3 - The Saxon Pedigree
A collection of portraits of Saxon princes, with rhyming text, from the period
1500 - 1546



This one, is a gown in a transitional style, part Master of the housebook dress with the neck chains and part Saxon court style with the cutout front, brustuch and lacings. 

This picture of two women,  makes me wonder if we're seeing the same style of dress, but the lady on the left is pregnant, and the lady on the left isn't. But either way, you've got to love the green Zopfe and the red and gold striped Haube on the other.

Cranach did us all a favor by painting most of the portraits in 3/4 view,  and some of them from the back,  and side, (this is crucial to understanding how the dress might be constructed, and how it should fit from all angles). 

There are also women in multi-parti dress, which may be heraldic dress, 108, 149, 158.

In the back, there are flip pages, where first you see the person as an adult, then you open the flip, and you see them as a child.   And then there are these three young ladies, in beautiful silk gowns that look to be pink/blue shot silk taffeta.

There are plenty of other lovely pictures (200+ total), including lots of men's clothes too, these were just the ones that caught my eye tonight.
mmcnealy: (Default)
While poking around in the V&A image archive for something else entirely, I ran across this petticoat, gathered into a very narrow waistband, with a flat section in front.

The problem with the 16th century date is that as far as I've been able to find, the EIC wasn't given a royal charter until 1600, so how could the stamp be from earlier in the 16th century?


http://collections.vam.ac.uk/objectid/O141134

Object: Petticoat
Date ca.: 1570-1575
Techniques: Cotton, painted and dyed; linen, printed
Artist/designer: Unknown
Place: Coromandel Coast, India
Dimensions
Height 111 cm
Circumference 348 cm (hem)
Museum number
T.87-1923

Although it is hand-drawn, the simple treatment of the design on this skirt almost gives the appearance of a block-print. Unusually for a chintz fabric, the black has been drawn directly onto the cloth. There is an East India Company stamp on top of the painted design on one side of the petticoat. Black designs like this were probably intended as mourning wear. Another very similar petticoat in the V&A was part of the Baker gift (IS.107-1950).
mmcnealy: (Default)
I've been looking around for other examples of the types of clothing found in Talhoffer today, so I hit up RealOnline, and found this. Lingerie, 1440's style, or an example of a sleeveless bathing girl type smock, but worn in the bedroom!
Its from a series of illustrations from the Trojan War, and the English translation is "Jason and Medea dress themselves"

So this would imply that this garment she's wearing isn't just something to wear to the baths, but is her underclothing, her smock.

Trojanischer Krieg
Iason und Medea kleiden sich an
Dieses Bild: 006365
Kunstwerk: Buchmalerei ; Illustrationszyklus Dichtung ; Miniatur ; Martinus Opifex ; Wien
Dokumentation: 1445 ; 1450 ; Wien ; Österreich ; Wien ; Österreichische Nationalbibliothek ; cod. 2773 ; fol. 18v

http://tarvos.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/server/images/7008183.JPG
mmcnealy: (Default)

[livejournal.com profile] dorinda2212 asked earlier for purple dresses, and these are what I found in a quick search.

Augsburger Monatsbilder - Spring
- Purple dress
http://www.dhm.de/ausstellungen/kurzweil/juni.htm#ernte

Augsburger Monatsbilder - Spring
** Purple dress with black trim, a squarish back **
http://www.dhm.de/ausstellungen/kurzweil/apr3.htm

Detail from Hl. Vitus entsagt den Freuden der Welt
Kunstwerk: Tafelmalerei ; Flügelaltar ; Kölderer-Werkstatt ; Tirol
Dokumentation: 1510 ; 1520 ; Innsbruck ; Österreich ; Tirol ; Landesmuseum Ferdinandeum ; IN 67
Anmerkungen: 755x573
** Good view of the back of a steuchlein and the dress. Violet colored dress **
http://www.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/server/images/7003224.JPG


Detail from Hl. Sippe
 Dieses Bild: 002030
 Kunstwerk: Tafelmalerei ; Tafel des Sippenaltars ; Scheel Sebastian ; Schwaben
 Dokumentation: 1517 ; 1517 ; Innsbruck ; Österreich ; Tirol ; Landesmuseum Ferdinandeum ; IN 130
** Its of a Saint, but its such a stunning gollar and nice view of the back of her steculein and geband, that I included it for the eye candy. Her gollar and skirt are color change purple **

http://www.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/server/images/7003493.JPG

-Marion

mmcnealy: (Default)
One of the challenges of German clothing for the modern sewer is the limited color palate. The distribution of colors amoung women's dresses goes something like this, and I'm limiting this to strictly regular people, not Saints or the Virgin Mary or other religious figures.

Per 100 dresses
Red, Orange, Pink - 80
Green - 10
Yellow -5
Purple -1
Black - 2
White, Grey - 1
Brown - 1


Blue is noticibly absent from the list, and up until know I have seen 1, yes ONE, actually blue dress in period that was really blue, not a blue green. Being that blue is a very common color now, it seems odd to find that it isn't easy to find period examples of it.

Here are some others I've just found, and the dresses are decidedly blue, they aren't on saints or the BVM. :)

Hl. Bartholomäus;Stifterfamilie
Dieses Bild: 003779B
Kunstwerk: Wandmalerei ; Innenfresko Seitenkapelle, Fragment ; Simon von Taisten ; Südtirol
Dokumentation: 1506 ; 1506 ; Dietenheim ; Italien ; Südtirol ; Pfarrkirche
Anmerkungen: Dietenheim, Pfarrkirche ; Weingartner Josef: Die Kunstdenkmäler Südtirols, Bd. I. Bozen, Innsbruck 1973, S. 316

Full http://www.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/server/images/7005336.JPG
Detail ** Blue dress on girl and mother, other girls with red dress **
http://www.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/server/images/7005337.JPG



Kreuze erscheinen auf Gewändern
Dieses Bild: 006918
Kunstwerk: Federzeichnung koloriert ; Jakob Mennel. Über Wunderzeichen ; Miniatur ; Freiburg
Dokumentation: 1503 ; 1503 ; Wien ; Österreich ; Wien ; Österreichische Nationalbibliothek ; cod. 4417 ; fol. 5r
Anmerkungen:

** Two blue dresses, orange dress **
http://www.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/server/images/7008748.JPG



Kreuze auf Gewändern von Tanzenden
Dieses Bild: 006929
Kunstwerk: Federzeichnung koloriert ; Jakob Mennel. Über Wunderzeichen ; Miniatur ; Freiburg
Dokumentation: 1503 ; 1503 ; Wien ; Österreich ; Wien ; Österreichische Nationalbibliothek ; cod. 4417 ; fol. 19r

** Blue and Green dresses **
http://www.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/server/images/7008760.JPG
mmcnealy: (Default)

And now for a costuming entry. Over the weekend, [livejournal.com profile] kampfrau asked for pictures of the back necklines of dresses on the GermanRenCostuming list. I posted them there, but thought to post them here as well.  This was just a brief (less than 30 min) search through online art resources I've got easy access to. This is by no means a comprehensive survey of all the back bodice views out there.

Citations and Links behind the cut )

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