mmcnealy: (Default)
I'm in the middle of pulling together the pictures to teach a class on Saturday, and of course I'd find something that I wasn't looking for. {Very big grin}

In this drawing of Caspar Strum by Durer, 1520, Caspar is wearing what looks to be a square necked rock (we only have his head and shoulders to go by), but Durer has captured the small detail of the thread marks that come through the garment when the fastener was sewn onto the garment. Look closely at the right hand corner of the neckline square, also check out the cool detail of the point that fastens his shirt.

By the stitch marks, I'm guessing that its an alternating hook and bar closure.

Of course his Burgher style Schlappe is way cool too!
mmcnealy: (Default)
I've been sewing on Henry's paltrock the last few days, here are a few pics. Click on them to see them larger at Flickr.

The front The back
The front The Back
I'm really pleased with how rich the folds of the skirt are, and how well they are hanging.

The folds of the skirt from below. I love the way the folds look.
Folds

The pieces all laid out flat, before sewing the skirt to the body. Its a full circle pleated onto the waist.
Pieces
mmcnealy: (Sewing)
In an earlier post I posted a large bunch of research pictures for leibrock, paltrock and wappenrock.

I finally got Henry to hold still long enough to try on his new little paltrock (pleated rock) today so I could get the placement for the hooks and eyes. I wasn't expecting that his tummy would have gotten bigger since I did the fitting on him, guess I'll unpick the front seam and add in a new panel to the skirt.

The skirt itself is a full circle, but knife pleated. I took the waist measurement x 3 and used that to create the circle for the skirt. The resulting circle was quite large, so I sectioned it into 8ths, which made it a lot more efficient to cut out of the fabric. The skirt itself was made out one yard and the rest out of scraps from a commission I had from a couple of years ago. Baby clothes are so small you can make them out of scraps that you wouldn't be able to use otherwise.

Taking pictures of Henry is a bit of a challenge, since he doesn't know the concept of standing still while I back up to take a picture. So we ended up playing a game of chase, I'd back up real fast and snap a picture quickly while he toddled to come get me.

Once I get the new panel sewn in, I'll get the skirt wet and pull the pleats in the skirt down to set them in the body of the skirt.
Cute pictures behind the cut )
mmcnealy: (Default)
I've been doing more research (so what else is new?) and have been looking at what are commonly known in re-enactment circles as waffenrocks (armour rock) or wappenrocks (heraldic rock). Other period names for them are leibrock (body rock)or paltrock (pleated rock).

I want to make one for Henry to wear for our next event in a few weeks. Small boys are commonly seen wearing them and I thought he'd look good in one. Boys typically wear the ones with square necks, which is also a grown man's style too, but men have other style options as well.

One key issue I have with most modern recreations of waffenrock, or paltrock, is how they fasten. Most of the ones I've seen have laced on the side seam. Being one of those annoying people who always want to know if that's how things really were done, I had to go look through the artwork and see if I could see how ones in period sources fastened. So far I have found no evidence of a side fastening paltrock, but plenty of evidence for them fastening on one shoulder using a variety of methods, either buttons, ties or hooks and eyes.

I've put it behind a cut to save you from having to scroll forever

So, here's the short list of research on how these fasten.  )
[Link rot fixed 10/14/11]

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