Meider reference for KR
Jul. 30th, 2003 06:01 pm![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
mmcnealyFrom Textiler Hausrat, Kleidung und Textilen von Nurnberg, 1500 -
165- by Jutta Zander-Seidel, pages 94-95. Translated by Katherine
Barich
3.2 Mieder - Corset
Unlike the “Brüstlein” and the “Leiblein” (outer bodices) in the
inventories, the linen underclothing known as a Mieder (corset)
was worn both above and beneath the shirt/chemise (Hemd). In
1550 Margarethe Clatz left “1 old white corset (mutter) over a
shirt/chemise”. (196) The Patrician Margarethe Rieter possessed
an unusually large number of eight corsets (Miedern) “new and
old, over and under the shirt/chemise (Hemet).” (197) At least
according to the material the corsets demonstrable in the Nurnberg
sources differed from the aforementioned bodices in the probates
of the princely and noble. Maria Jacobaa Fugger left behind in
1588 2 corsets (untermieder) made of Macheier (wool, possibly
mohair) and Sendal (Zendeldort). (198) 22 year old Pflazgrafin
(countess) Sabina von Neuburg, desceased in 1598 wore under her
burial clothes and underdress (unterrock) a now preserved light
brown corset of moiré silk. (Illustration 81) (199) Whether the
extant corset of the Pfalzgrafin in the Bavarian National Museum
in Munich, and the pieces mentioned in the Nurnberg inventories
are parallel can not be determined based on the available
sources. But the notable number of 8 corsets in the clothing
index of Margarethe Rieter alone probably reference a fashionable
leadership role of the city dwelling upper class, here in regard
to the close proper fit of the upper body clothing in the style of
Spanish fashion.
Footnotes:
194 See page 73.
195 From GNM HG 4063
196 StaN, LI5, fol. 41v-42r.
197 GNM, K-A (see footnote 10).
198 Karen Stolleis: The Clothing of Maria Jacobaa Fugger
(156201588). In: Documenta Textilia. Writing for Sigrid Muller-
Christensen. Munich 1981, page 357 – 370, especially 363-364.
199 Munich, Bavarian National Museum, Inventory Number T 4111. –
Karen Stolleis: The Clothing of the Lauinger Count’s Vault.
Forschungsheft 3, edited by the Bavarian National Museum, Munich,
1977, catalog #3.
Illustrations:
81 Corset (untermieder) of 22 year old Pfalzgräfin Dorothea
Sabina von Neuburg (died 1598).
MM's note: Margarethe Rieter's inventory comes from 1548, its detailed in another section of the same book.
165- by Jutta Zander-Seidel, pages 94-95. Translated by Katherine
Barich
3.2 Mieder - Corset
Unlike the “Brüstlein” and the “Leiblein” (outer bodices) in the
inventories, the linen underclothing known as a Mieder (corset)
was worn both above and beneath the shirt/chemise (Hemd). In
1550 Margarethe Clatz left “1 old white corset (mutter) over a
shirt/chemise”. (196) The Patrician Margarethe Rieter possessed
an unusually large number of eight corsets (Miedern) “new and
old, over and under the shirt/chemise (Hemet).” (197) At least
according to the material the corsets demonstrable in the Nurnberg
sources differed from the aforementioned bodices in the probates
of the princely and noble. Maria Jacobaa Fugger left behind in
1588 2 corsets (untermieder) made of Macheier (wool, possibly
mohair) and Sendal (Zendeldort). (198) 22 year old Pflazgrafin
(countess) Sabina von Neuburg, desceased in 1598 wore under her
burial clothes and underdress (unterrock) a now preserved light
brown corset of moiré silk. (Illustration 81) (199) Whether the
extant corset of the Pfalzgrafin in the Bavarian National Museum
in Munich, and the pieces mentioned in the Nurnberg inventories
are parallel can not be determined based on the available
sources. But the notable number of 8 corsets in the clothing
index of Margarethe Rieter alone probably reference a fashionable
leadership role of the city dwelling upper class, here in regard
to the close proper fit of the upper body clothing in the style of
Spanish fashion.
Footnotes:
194 See page 73.
195 From GNM HG 4063
196 StaN, LI5, fol. 41v-42r.
197 GNM, K-A (see footnote 10).
198 Karen Stolleis: The Clothing of Maria Jacobaa Fugger
(156201588). In: Documenta Textilia. Writing for Sigrid Muller-
Christensen. Munich 1981, page 357 – 370, especially 363-364.
199 Munich, Bavarian National Museum, Inventory Number T 4111. –
Karen Stolleis: The Clothing of the Lauinger Count’s Vault.
Forschungsheft 3, edited by the Bavarian National Museum, Munich,
1977, catalog #3.
Illustrations:
81 Corset (untermieder) of 22 year old Pfalzgräfin Dorothea
Sabina von Neuburg (died 1598).
MM's note: Margarethe Rieter's inventory comes from 1548, its detailed in another section of the same book.
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(no subject)
Date: 2003-07-31 05:34 am (UTC)(no subject)
Date: 2003-07-31 08:35 am (UTC)I don't know what's up with the funky character's though, they weren't there when I posted it.
(no subject)
Date: 2003-08-01 08:51 am (UTC)(no subject)
Date: 2003-08-01 08:16 pm (UTC)ISBN 3-422-06067-7
Amazon.com's Germany site sometimes has used copies, that's where I got mine. I wil scan in the pertainent pages this weekend and post the links to them.