Wait! Where's the (smock) sleeves?
May. 9th, 2007 02:12 pm![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
mmcnealyRecently I've been thinking about summer, and about hot weather, and how my wardrobe is in a sad, sad state and needs serious work
.And especially about how when I roll up dress sleeves because of the heat or to work, it just doesn't look like the pictures, because my smock sleeves show when I roll up my dress sleeves and the period pictures don't.
And so I groused, until it hit me.
MY smock sleeves show when my dress sleeves are rolled up, and ones in PERIOD pictures DON'T! Like this picture, for example, from REALonline, Errettung eines in einen Mühlbach gefallenen Kindes, Bild: 000496; 1518 ; 1522 ; Graz ; Österreich ; Steiermark ; Landesmuseum Joanneum.
Where's her smock sleeves?
Wait! What? How can this be? Aren't all chemise/smocks/hemds/whatever_you_call_em long sleeved?
Well, perhaps not, and here's some images for discussion of both sleeves rolled up and no smock sleeves showing, and sleeves rolled up and smocks showing.
MASTER of the Pfullendorf Altar - Beginning of the 15th century - The Birth of Mary **Sleeves rolled up, no smock**
Geburt Mariens, Bild: 000448, 1438 ; 1440 ; Klosterneuburg ; Österreich ; Niederösterreich ; ** Rolled up sleeves on maid, no smock ** Detail
Geburt Mariens,Bild: 001844; 1450 ; 1499 ; Zöbing ; Österreich ; Niederösterreich ** Rolled up sleeves, no smock **
Geburt Mariens,Bild: 000322; 1475 ; 1485 ; Kirchdorf an der Krems ; Österreich ; Oberösterreich ** Green dress, sleeves pulled up, no smock **
Geburt des Hl. Rochus, Bild: 004698; 1475 ; 1485 ; Nürnberg ; Deutschland ; Franken ; St. Lorenz ** Maid with pushed up dress sleeves, no smock showing**
Krankenpflege durch die Hl. Elisabeth von Thüringen,Bild: 000518;1495 ; 1505 ; Laufen ; Deutschland ; Bayern ; Pfarrkirche **Maid with rolled up sleeves, no smock showing**
Geburt Mariens, Bild: 006144; 1515 ; 1520 ; Wien ; Österreich ; Wien ; Österreichische Nationalbibliothek ; cod. 2748 ; fol. 120v Anmerkungen: Gebetbuch des Ulrich von Montfort ** Rolled up sleeves, no smock **
Errettung eines in einen Mühlbach gefallenen Kindes, Bild: 000496; 1518 ; 1522 ; Graz ; Österreich ; Steiermark ; Landesmuseum Joanneum ** No smock sleeves showing under her rolled up dress sleeves ** Detail
After all these rolled up sleeves with no smocks showing, I began to wonder if it was just artists convention not to show smock sleeves when dress sleeves where rolled up. But then I found images that showed smock sleeves underneath rolled up dress sleeves, so its not just a general convention.
Geburt Mariens, Bild: 001913; 1480 ; 1490 ; Innsbruck ; Österreich ; Tirol ; Landesmuseum Ferdinandeum ** Maid in sleeveless underdress with long sleeved smock **
TGeburt Mariens, Bild: 014920; 1480 ; 1500 ; Biertan ; Rumänien ; Siebenbürgen ; Evang. Kirche ** Maid in green dress has pulled up sleeves, showing smock underneath**
Errettung eines neugeborenen Kindes, Bild: 000949; 1513 ; 1513 ; Großgmain ; Österreich ; Salzburg ; Pfarrkirche **Rolled up sleeves with smock at edges**
Geburt des Hl. Nikolaus, Bild: 002441; 1514 ; 1514 ; Meran ; Italien ; Südtirol ; Städtisches Museum ** Rolled up sleeves with smock showing ** Detail
And then there are these pictures, which show both dresses with pushed up sleeves and not smocks, and bodices with smocks.
Szenen der Monate April, Mai und Juni - Details der Frühlingsszenen ** Pushed up sleeves and no smocks, and bodices with smocks**
The Splendor Solis - Plate 21 ** Women washing linen. Some wearing bodice and hemd, others wearing dress with sleeves rolled up **
So, what did they wear under their dresses, if it doesn't have long sleeves? One option is the bathing maid slip, as seen here in these pictures. These are from the late 14th to early 15th century
These are from the late 14th to early 15th centuryThis one is from the early 16th century, but the style is almost identical Hl. Nikolaus beschenkt drei Jungfrauen, Bild: 002442; 1514 ; 1514 ; Meran ; Italien ; Südtirol ; Städtisches Museum ; IN 27
Another option is a short sleeved, or 3/4 sleeved smock, as in these pictures
Doppelbildnis eines Brautpaares, Bertold V. Tucher und seine Frau, Meister des Landauer Altars,1475
And I included this picture because its just too cool. A woman with her dress unfastened, and her smock too.
Zeltlager Kaiser Karls V. vor Lauingen im Jahre 1546, Bild: 015457; 1551 ; 1551 ; Lauingen ; Deutschland ; Schwaben ; Heimathaus ** Woman with dress unhooked and smock as well **
Now I just need to translate the small section in Textiler Hausrat about unterhemden to see if if says anything useful. But it appears that a sleeveless or short sleeved smock is documentable.
Hurray! One more weapon in the fight against heat stroke!
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![Eine unschuldig verurteilte Jungfrau wird von einem Ritter gerettet (»Der Ritter vom Turn. Von den Exempeln der Gotsfurcht un Erberkeit«, Basel: Michael Furter 1493), 1493, Holzschnitt, ca. 100×125 mm. Konkordanz: Schramm 1029. [Künstlerisches Werk: Druckgrafik. Dürer: Das Gesamtwerk, S. 780]](http://www.curiousfrau.com/images/Durer_1493_Schramm1029.JPG){kind=link}
(no subject)
Date: 2007-05-09 09:26 pm (UTC)(no subject)
Date: 2007-05-09 09:41 pm (UTC)Of course, this would involve buying more fabric. But when was that ever a challenge?
(no subject)
Date: 2007-05-09 10:02 pm (UTC)I don't actually know if it *is* a bodice and skirt, or a sleeveless dress with an apron over the top.
(no subject)
Date: 2007-05-10 06:59 am (UTC)