mmcnealy: (Default)
[personal profile] mmcnealy
I'm looking for pointers to a wood finish that's documentable to pre-1600 Europe. I'd like it to not be an opaque finish, but clear.

I've heard that a mixture of beeswax/linseed is documentable, but haven't been able to find any evidence of that.

Anybody?

(no subject)

Date: 2008-01-29 08:59 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] isenglass.livejournal.com
You might try here as a starting point: http://www.bloodandsawdust.com/index.html .

(no subject)

Date: 2008-01-29 09:00 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] hsifeng.livejournal.com
Check out the SCA woodworking groups: I believe you will find a ton of stuff on there!

From Theoplilis, for finishing paintings:

Date: 2008-01-29 09:03 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] jljonsn.livejournal.com
The Gluten [Called] Varnish
Put some linseed oil into a small new pot and add some very finely ground resin, which is called fornis, and which looks like very clear frankincense except that when it is broken up it has a higher luster. After putting it on the fire, cook it carefully, without letting it boil, until a third of it has evaporated. Beware of flame, because the varnish is extremely dangerous and, if it should catch fire, difficult to extinguish. Every painting that is coated with this gluten is made bright, beautiful, and completely lasting.

He also mentions stains using linseed oil as a medium.

Beeswax mixed in? Maybe. Look for something called "Tried & True". It's a pre-mix beeswax and linseed oil. I use it.

Re: From Theoplilis, for finishing paintings:

Date: 2008-01-30 12:24 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] mmcnealy.livejournal.com
I remembered you mentioning Tried & True before, and looked at our local Woodcraft and they didn't have it, and hadn't even heard of it. So if I use a beeswax/linseed finish, I'll probably make my own. I've got a large amount of beeswax already on hand.

(no subject)

Date: 2008-01-29 09:06 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] ornerie.livejournal.com
Cennini as well as Theophilis talks about finishes.... (and both are available as dover publications for uber cheap! woot!)

Re: Cennini

Date: 2008-01-30 12:06 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] mmcnealy.livejournal.com
Thanks!
I also found reference to a varnish made of egg white

Of course it might all be a moot point. I glued the project together with a cheese glue from Cennini detailed in a recent Creative Anachronist. The glue has left dark marks on the red oak I used, even where I wiped the glue off immediately. I just tried sanding it off, and its not coming off. You can see it in this picture

Re: Cennini

Date: 2008-01-30 12:21 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] jljonsn.livejournal.com
'ware the eggwhites. My understanding is that the resultant products aren't water resistant.

I may be being pedantic, but you know that red oak is new world?

Re: Cennini

Date: 2008-01-30 12:30 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] mmcnealy.livejournal.com
Yes, I know its new world, but I was looking for a hard wood that I could afford and would hold up to use by a child. White oak is impossible to find in anything other than large boards and pine is too soft.

In my hunt for varnishes I've discovered that poplar and maple were used in woodcarving in Germany, so I think the next one I make will be out of poplar, unless you can suggest a wood that would be better.

Re: Cennini

Date: 2008-01-30 08:08 pm (UTC)
From: [personal profile] rectangularcat
The Merrifield translation of Cennini apparently isn't that great. I got another translation as well so if you want to compare, I can scan those pages for you.

(no subject)

Date: 2008-01-30 05:20 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] stitchwhich.livejournal.com
I used linseed oil on my Viking chest but I'll be darned if I can find my documentation for it. Not that it would help, being too early. But the other folks already covered the other two sources I was going to cite.

Arn has "13th century Wooden Church Chests" or somesuch which contains documentation for various finishes in exant chests.

One note - You really do have to flatten and stake out the linseed-impregnated rags until they dry completely. While it is cool to watch the balled-up ones spontaniously combust, it tends to startle your neighbors.

Not that I'd know, or anything. :)

(no subject)

Date: 2008-01-30 02:58 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] mmcnealy.livejournal.com
I think I'll have to borrow that book from Arn, or peruse it at your house, whichever I can get away with.

(no subject)

Date: 2008-01-30 06:54 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] etaine-pommier.livejournal.com
The linseed oil available today usually has (heavy metal) hardening agents in it that are very poisonous - if you think the little man might chew on the furniture, you may want to consider a different finish. Or make very, very sure you get pure oil.

(no subject)

Date: 2008-01-30 07:52 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] mmcnealy.livejournal.com
Thanks for the tip! Henry chews on everything these days..
I think I'm going to use raw linseed oil (flaxseed oil) from the health food store and make my own finish.

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