What I've been up to lately...

[mmcnealy]

Lately I've been working in the sewing room putting research into practice...

Here's what I've been making, a Schlappe. The image research cheat sheet, or the sheet that has all the research images in one convenient place that I can print out and take into the sewing room with me is here. They are from the German Single-leaf Woodcuts, 1500-1550 and are just head shots of various landsknecht wearing these caps, the image # is attached to each headshot so I can find which picture they belong to later for documentation purposes.

This sort of image source sheet helps keep me on track when in the work room and inspires me to keep going through nine versions of prototypes before I finally get the right look. Yes *9* , prototypes, usually it just takes me 4, but I wanted this hat to look just right.


I'm still not completly happy with it, it looks better in the picture than in real life, and don't ask me to show you the inside of the hat yet, its rough. So I guess there will be at least 10 versions of it before I'm through, but I'm liking it a lot so far, and its pretty comfortable, and warm.

The funny thing about Schlappen is that there are various hats that go with the name. So this is a Schlappe, but so is this (Anna Durer 1527).
You would think that such different hats would have different names, but one is a military arming cap and the other is decidely civilian wear for both men and women.

Guess what I'm making next? Yup, Anna Durer type since it appears to be the same construction as the military schlappe but with different ear flaps and no slashing. Of course I'll probably find out differently once I start making it!

Of course I could go back to working on the new wulsthaube and steuchlein that I got started and stopped due to other issues... Decisions, decisions.

Oh and my lovely headform's name is Walburga, after Walburga Bimmel. Just because I like that name :D

Comments

[aclisto.livejournal.com]

Very nice! And I have to admit that baby of your is as cute as a button!

[mmcnealy.livejournal.com]

Thanks!

Henry is such a sweetie, both on camera and off. I'm so glad that I have the luxury of staying home with him. :D

[noxcat.livejournal.com]

I had to forward that Anna Durer image on to a Laurel, since the sleeve cut is so obvious, thanks to the mismatching of the pattern at the seam. :)

[mmcnealy.livejournal.com]

Glad you liked it.

She's wearing a Gollar over a red dress. The Gollar is the brocade patterened bodice part with the mismatched seam on the shoulder.

Is this relating to the raglan versus set in sleeve for German dresses arguement?

[rectangularcat]

I like the Gollar. I must make myself one someday!

[frualeydis.livejournal.com]

If you look at Anna Dürer's cap it looks like it has both a small piece of fabric that covers the neck and ears, (like in this picture but without the furry slits. Couldn't find a better picture right now, I have to wake up Maja now) and long ear flaps that are tied bove her forhead! Or is it two black caps?

/Eva

[mmcnealy.livejournal.com]

Nope, its just one black cap. I've studied several wooddcuts and a couple of detailed drawings of people wearing these. There's a small piece of fabric at the back of the neck on the cap I made, it just doesn't go down as far as the civilian schlappe.

I love those furry slitted biretts, great way to use up little bits of fur after a recycling project. :D

Too many hats, so little time...

[katanubis.livejournal.com]

There's a reason why I never got into German hats. The English ones are "interesting" enough!

[mmcnealy.livejournal.com]

You mean weird. I'll even admit that German hats are weird, I think that's why I like them. :)

[peronel.livejournal.com]

Oooooh! Nice.

I don't know if this is of interested, but there was a very similar shaped knitted cap in the Shakespeare exhibition a year or two ago. I'd scan the picture but - alas! - the catalogue went with the ex.

Nel

[mmcnealy.livejournal.com]

Thanks!
I've got a picture of a similarly shaped knitted cap in one of my books too. This particular style appears to have been made both out of woven fabric as well as knitted. Personally, they are a lot faster to sew than knit and I feel better about slashing the fabric than knitting. :D