mmcnealy: (Default)
After making several prototypes, I think I finally have it!

This is a notched barett, dockenbaretten, as seen in this woodcut by Erhard Schoen from The German Single-leaf Woodcuts G.1212 Lansquenet and Wife, c. 1535

Here are my latest attempts, )

Its not completely finished, but at least I fixed the parts I felt failed in the last prototype. Now to just do the finishing thread tacks and do the final pressing.
mmcnealy: (Default)
I've been working on my prototype for the Dockenbaretten (notched barett) aka "The Starfish" hat, and various other names for the last few days. Since its usually in 30 min segments after the baby goes to bed for the night, it takes a bit longer to make progress than I'd like.

For my hat prototypes I like to use craft felt, nice cheap and is a good substitute for the felted wool or wool melton that I'll use for the finished hat. I can make mistakes and not think of all the money I just wasted too!

Progress so far has been creating a square topped crown with the four seams that are commonly seen with this style, with nice rounded corners, not points. The head hole is an oval, set on the diagonal, so the front and back of the head oval are oriented to the points of the square (I'll post pictures of this later).

I then sewed on the straight parts for the crown, and cut the slashes that open into the notches too deep and in the wrong spots too. gack! Even sewing the edges of the square on the fold to the brim didn't fix the problem but it does start to give the look I'm going for. So I'll rip it off and sew new brim pieces and then re-attach them to the crown, after I tack the edge of the crown to the brim, then slash.
mmcnealy: (Default)
Lately I've been working in the sewing room putting research into practice...

Here's what I've been making, a Schlappe. The image research cheat sheet, or the sheet that has all the research images in one convenient place that I can print out and take into the sewing room with me is here. They are from the German Single-leaf Woodcuts, 1500-1550 and are just head shots of various landsknecht wearing these caps, the image # is attached to each headshot so I can find which picture they belong to later for documentation purposes.

This sort of image source sheet helps keep me on track when in the work room and inspires me to keep going through nine versions of prototypes before I finally get the right look. Yes *9* , prototypes, usually it just takes me 4, but I wanted this hat to look just right.


I'm still not completly happy with it, it looks better in the picture than in real life, and don't ask me to show you the inside of the hat yet, its rough. So I guess there will be at least 10 versions of it before I'm through, but I'm liking it a lot so far, and its pretty comfortable, and warm.

The funny thing about Schlappen is that there are various hats that go with the name. So this is a Schlappe, but so is this (Anna Durer 1527).
You would think that such different hats would have different names, but one is a military arming cap and the other is decidely civilian wear for both men and women.

Guess what I'm making next? Yup, Anna Durer type since it appears to be the same construction as the military schlappe but with different ear flaps and no slashing. Of course I'll probably find out differently once I start making it!

Of course I could go back to working on the new wulsthaube and steuchlein that I got started and stopped due to other issues... Decisions, decisions.

Oh and my lovely headform's name is Walburga, after Walburga Bimmel. Just because I like that name :D

May 2017

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